Wednesday, June 27, 2012
Thursday, June 21, 2012
Lugz
I haven't brazed a lugged frame for a while, but I did today.
Since I last posted brazing photos, I've replaced my torch. I was doing a second pass to build up some filets when the old torch started to go crazy. I replaced the valves, but it still wouldn't hold a position for either gas or 02, causing the flame to keep changing. Random flame size and gas/02 mix make it hard to braze. And the second pass came out very lumpy. Naturally, I caught plenty of grief for it.
But that issue is long past. I use a Smiths torch, which offers a life-time warranty, so I'll have to send the old one in for service one of these days, which will give me a spare. That's one of the benefits to using high-quality American products.
Anyhow, today I was doing a double oversize frame with Dazza's Slant Six (actually they have a new name now, but its less memorable to me, in my old age). .
Sunday I installed the brake cable tunnel in the top tube, and mitered and fit up the main triangle. Finally, I brazed the chain stays to the BB. I like to do this first and insure my alignment between them and a foundation of a frame. I use brass filler here, and then use silver later when installing the seat and down tubes.
Today I started by installing H20 mounts, and a chain catcher and cable stop on the drive side chain stay.
From there, I cleaned up the lug edges, sanded the insides to a clean fresh surface, cleaned the tube ends, inside and out, and fluxed the mating surfaces on the lugs and tubes.
Then its time to put it all together in the jig, and set the pins that will hold everything together. I don't know about anyone else, but I find this to be a messy job, with flux slipping out of the joints, while I try to hold the everything together as I fit the jig back to the frame (or is it the other way around?).
Also, there are always one or two pins that want to come loose as I set other pins. It's important that the pins hold well, because we move from here to the alignment table and I don't want things shifting between work stations.
First I double check the chain stays - they're centered to within less then a mm. BTW, that's my antique Starette height gauge that I got for a song on theBay - it works great and much cheaper than anything new.
Now lest you think I'm cavalier abut the rear alignment, my experience is that heat in the frame will shift the stays - so there's no point in trying to move things around. We'll check again later.
Next I check the alignment of the main triangle. The down tube needed a little adjustment (about a mm), it required the remove of a pin, and its replacement in new location. Then all looked good, so I made sure the pins were tight, one more check and its time for flux.
The Slant Six upper head and (and especially the) seat tube lugs are long. So the filler needs to be pulled a bit farther than with some other lug sets. But I use Stainless Light Flux, which is effective at cleaning, and holds up well to time under heat.
That's a fluxed joint with pins sticking out. Which naturally leads to brazing.
There are a couple of spots with a little overfill, but not too bad overall. Since these pix, I soaked the flux off the joints, trimmed off the pins, filed the pins down on the inside of the head and seat tubes, and reamed and faced the head tube. I should have taken a picture of the faces, which have a perfect circle of fill between lug and and tube, maybe I can add those pix later.
After than, it was time for an hour and a half riding, then dinner, and off to write you a few blog posts. All in all a busy and productive day.
Since I last posted brazing photos, I've replaced my torch. I was doing a second pass to build up some filets when the old torch started to go crazy. I replaced the valves, but it still wouldn't hold a position for either gas or 02, causing the flame to keep changing. Random flame size and gas/02 mix make it hard to braze. And the second pass came out very lumpy. Naturally, I caught plenty of grief for it.
But that issue is long past. I use a Smiths torch, which offers a life-time warranty, so I'll have to send the old one in for service one of these days, which will give me a spare. That's one of the benefits to using high-quality American products.
Anyhow, today I was doing a double oversize frame with Dazza's Slant Six (actually they have a new name now, but its less memorable to me, in my old age). .
Sunday I installed the brake cable tunnel in the top tube, and mitered and fit up the main triangle. Finally, I brazed the chain stays to the BB. I like to do this first and insure my alignment between them and a foundation of a frame. I use brass filler here, and then use silver later when installing the seat and down tubes.
Today I started by installing H20 mounts, and a chain catcher and cable stop on the drive side chain stay.
From there, I cleaned up the lug edges, sanded the insides to a clean fresh surface, cleaned the tube ends, inside and out, and fluxed the mating surfaces on the lugs and tubes.
Then its time to put it all together in the jig, and set the pins that will hold everything together. I don't know about anyone else, but I find this to be a messy job, with flux slipping out of the joints, while I try to hold the everything together as I fit the jig back to the frame (or is it the other way around?).
Also, there are always one or two pins that want to come loose as I set other pins. It's important that the pins hold well, because we move from here to the alignment table and I don't want things shifting between work stations.
Now lest you think I'm cavalier abut the rear alignment, my experience is that heat in the frame will shift the stays - so there's no point in trying to move things around. We'll check again later.
Next I check the alignment of the main triangle. The down tube needed a little adjustment (about a mm), it required the remove of a pin, and its replacement in new location. Then all looked good, so I made sure the pins were tight, one more check and its time for flux.
The Slant Six upper head and (and especially the) seat tube lugs are long. So the filler needs to be pulled a bit farther than with some other lug sets. But I use Stainless Light Flux, which is effective at cleaning, and holds up well to time under heat.
After than, it was time for an hour and a half riding, then dinner, and off to write you a few blog posts. All in all a busy and productive day.
A stranger visits
Wow, its been a long time since I visited this place!
Where to start? Well, I recently got a new helmet: a Lazer 02. After trying to purchase at a local bike shop, I ended up going to the local Performance - everyone else was out of stock for anything from Lazer.
Let me back up. I've been wearing cycling helmets for a long time - starting with an MSR (that's Mountain Safety Research - and yes, it was a modified climbing helmet), with a bright yellow hard-shell, complete with a generous three round holes (the diameter of my index finger) front and rear for ventilation. That helmet was very much appreciated when a front tubular rolled off the rim, landing me on my back in the parkway (fortunately), still strapped into my pedals, with my hands still on the brake hoods. Can you tell that when I started riding, I had no role models for how to properly install a tubie?
I think there are times and places where a helmet is entirely optional, but, I don't allow my children that choice because I don't think that they are ready to make a thoughtful judgement. And to encourage their helmet usage, my wife and I always wear a helmet when on the bike. So, with all of us always wearing helmets, its that much more important that they fit and work well.
Normally I wouldn't bring up so mundane a topic, but I think that the 02 is a brilliant design. Fitting it is not dependent on the rider's head shape. Which is cool. And most riders can fit in a single size. Which is also cool.
First from a shop's perspective: many fewer sizes and models need to be stocked to address various sizes and shapes of riders heads. SKU counts in the industry are pretty crazy, and anything that can help a local bike shop limit its SKUs,without limiting service, has be good.
More importantly for the riders, its possible to select a color and size (most won't need to go to the extra large, but a simple measurement at home will tell the story). No worries about fit - just turn the dial until it fits, and you're done!
Let me caveat this, some reader(s) has no doubt tried the 02 and found it not to their liking. I can respect this. But, this fact doesn't undermine the idea that most people should be able to easily get a great fit with an 02.
OK, I can be a geek for design, but I think this one is neat. I just don't know why they don't apply it to the rest of their helmets.
The 02 has effective ventilation (copious sweating qualifies me as a tough tester), and the helmet quickly goes unnoticed by the rider, neither pinching, slip-sliding, wiggling, or in any other way calling attention to itself. So what's not to like? Actually, I'd like designers to come out with silent helmets. One of the beauties of helmet-less riding is the absence of wind noise. But I'm resigned that a quiet helmet is probably still a long way off.
On the other hand, there has been a recent trend towards lighter helmets. Spend your money if you want - the lightweights may cost 2 - 3 times what an 02 does. But, I don't see a helmet as a smart place to try to reduce weight. It has been pointed out to me that some lightweight helmets use special new expanded foams that do a better job of shock absorbing. That may be. And, to the degree this works, great. But, I don't find, even after a century ride, that I notice the weight of my helmet on my head. So what's the benefit to a lighter helmet; maybe bragging rights?
However, if you can feel the difference in helmet weights (generally we're talking about going from 300 to 200 grams, or about a 0.2lb weight loss), or if you just like some aspect of the design of a lightweight helmet, and its been certified, go for it. I'll still respect you in the morning. But I'm going to hold to the notion that a helmet is last place one should look to save weight.
So that's my 2 cents on the Lazer 02 and bike helmets in general.
Dissenters are welcome to leave comments.
Where to start? Well, I recently got a new helmet: a Lazer 02. After trying to purchase at a local bike shop, I ended up going to the local Performance - everyone else was out of stock for anything from Lazer.
Let me back up. I've been wearing cycling helmets for a long time - starting with an MSR (that's Mountain Safety Research - and yes, it was a modified climbing helmet), with a bright yellow hard-shell, complete with a generous three round holes (the diameter of my index finger) front and rear for ventilation. That helmet was very much appreciated when a front tubular rolled off the rim, landing me on my back in the parkway (fortunately), still strapped into my pedals, with my hands still on the brake hoods. Can you tell that when I started riding, I had no role models for how to properly install a tubie?
I think there are times and places where a helmet is entirely optional, but, I don't allow my children that choice because I don't think that they are ready to make a thoughtful judgement. And to encourage their helmet usage, my wife and I always wear a helmet when on the bike. So, with all of us always wearing helmets, its that much more important that they fit and work well.
Normally I wouldn't bring up so mundane a topic, but I think that the 02 is a brilliant design. Fitting it is not dependent on the rider's head shape. Which is cool. And most riders can fit in a single size. Which is also cool.
First from a shop's perspective: many fewer sizes and models need to be stocked to address various sizes and shapes of riders heads. SKU counts in the industry are pretty crazy, and anything that can help a local bike shop limit its SKUs,without limiting service, has be good.
More importantly for the riders, its possible to select a color and size (most won't need to go to the extra large, but a simple measurement at home will tell the story). No worries about fit - just turn the dial until it fits, and you're done!
Let me caveat this, some reader(s) has no doubt tried the 02 and found it not to their liking. I can respect this. But, this fact doesn't undermine the idea that most people should be able to easily get a great fit with an 02.
OK, I can be a geek for design, but I think this one is neat. I just don't know why they don't apply it to the rest of their helmets.
The 02 has effective ventilation (copious sweating qualifies me as a tough tester), and the helmet quickly goes unnoticed by the rider, neither pinching, slip-sliding, wiggling, or in any other way calling attention to itself. So what's not to like? Actually, I'd like designers to come out with silent helmets. One of the beauties of helmet-less riding is the absence of wind noise. But I'm resigned that a quiet helmet is probably still a long way off.
On the other hand, there has been a recent trend towards lighter helmets. Spend your money if you want - the lightweights may cost 2 - 3 times what an 02 does. But, I don't see a helmet as a smart place to try to reduce weight. It has been pointed out to me that some lightweight helmets use special new expanded foams that do a better job of shock absorbing. That may be. And, to the degree this works, great. But, I don't find, even after a century ride, that I notice the weight of my helmet on my head. So what's the benefit to a lighter helmet; maybe bragging rights?
However, if you can feel the difference in helmet weights (generally we're talking about going from 300 to 200 grams, or about a 0.2lb weight loss), or if you just like some aspect of the design of a lightweight helmet, and its been certified, go for it. I'll still respect you in the morning. But I'm going to hold to the notion that a helmet is last place one should look to save weight.
So that's my 2 cents on the Lazer 02 and bike helmets in general.
Dissenters are welcome to leave comments.
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Graffitti
I've been trying some painting using spray cans. Not for client bikes, just on a prototype for me. It'll be a long time, if ever, before I explore painting for customers. Painting properly takes a bit of equipment, space and practice. By a bit, I mean a lot.
But, even with limited goals, there's much to be learned by doing something oneself. And, it helps to walk in the shoes of a painter, in terms of understanding what I'm delivering to them.
Anyhow, I'm making some progress. Just using Rustoleum. I put a light primer coat of clear on the crabon frame. Then tried feathering in black over the joints. The edges aren't all that I'd like them to be, it probably would have gone more easily with an airbrush.
I also tried using some reflective paint for safety. It's supposed to blend in and then POP under headlights. It turns out that Black isn't a good color base to hide this stuff. So I covered most of it up with black paint. It's still there on the bare carbon sections, and hopefully adds a measure of safety on night rides.
Clear is tricky stuff. To get a good finish, it needs to go on wet, right on the edge of running. In fact, sometimes a minor run will flatten out before drying. But, when you get runs, it means sanding them back.
Spraying on shaped surfaces, its hard to maintain an equal distance from everything. Instead, the closest surface gets wet, and the further surfaces end up with a bumpy pattern which I attribute to partial setting up of the clear coat while airborne.
The following pictures go through a sequence of layers from rough to mirror like. Enjoy!
But, even with limited goals, there's much to be learned by doing something oneself. And, it helps to walk in the shoes of a painter, in terms of understanding what I'm delivering to them.
Anyhow, I'm making some progress. Just using Rustoleum. I put a light primer coat of clear on the crabon frame. Then tried feathering in black over the joints. The edges aren't all that I'd like them to be, it probably would have gone more easily with an airbrush.
I also tried using some reflective paint for safety. It's supposed to blend in and then POP under headlights. It turns out that Black isn't a good color base to hide this stuff. So I covered most of it up with black paint. It's still there on the bare carbon sections, and hopefully adds a measure of safety on night rides.
Clear is tricky stuff. To get a good finish, it needs to go on wet, right on the edge of running. In fact, sometimes a minor run will flatten out before drying. But, when you get runs, it means sanding them back.
Spraying on shaped surfaces, its hard to maintain an equal distance from everything. Instead, the closest surface gets wet, and the further surfaces end up with a bumpy pattern which I attribute to partial setting up of the clear coat while airborne.
The following pictures go through a sequence of layers from rough to mirror like. Enjoy!
Friday, July 29, 2011
Slow Steady Progress
A few more pix:
Lower Head Tube Filet
I little bumpy on the the outside.
Filing away.
A little more sanding and we'll have a nicely radiused filet.
Lower Head Tube Filet
I little bumpy on the the outside.
Filing away.
A little more sanding and we'll have a nicely radiused filet.
Sunday, July 24, 2011
A few more pix
Here is a downtube cable stop. Polish needs a bit of touch up. can you see the heart-shaped cutouts?
Hard to see from this side, but the front derailer hanger is polished.
And the bottom bracket is almost done. Just a bit more sanding.
Hard to see from this side, but the front derailer hanger is polished.
And the bottom bracket is almost done. Just a bit more sanding.
Monday, July 18, 2011
Shiny Bits
Working on some shiny bits for Nick's crit bike. Looks like there are still some gouges to sand out before completing the buff job.
Thursday, July 14, 2011
Nick's Crit Bike
Charlies mountain bike is almost ready paint. Just a bit of sanding and painting. Meanwhile, Nick's Crit bike is coming along. After tube fit up, I've brazed the seat tube and down tube to the BB. A bit of filing and sanding left, then on to the head tube. BTW, the alignment is looking very good at this point. So on to pictures.
Seat tube tacked in.
Down tube fit up looks good even after tacking the seat tube.
Filet ready for filing and sanding.
And the head tube fit up still looks tight!
See ya next time.
Filet ready for filing and sanding.
And the head tube fit up still looks tight!
See ya next time.
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Moving along
I've been riding again for about 6 weeks or so. They we (the family) went out west, where I managed to tear a hamstring. Humph! Anyway, now I don't have to feel guilty about shop time cutting into riding time.
I'm back to finishing up Charlie's small 26er. The main thing accomplished today was to bend the seatstays, cut them to length, and cap them using pieces of 1-1/8 inch tubing. A few pix follow:
This is my tiny shop after closing up for the night. Less than 1/2 of a stall in the garage.
Here are the bent stays. I like this radius much better than the sharp kink in so many commercial offerings.
A little final clean-up remaining - but pretty close to finished.
Charlies unfinished frame above. I checked the alignment using the table and via a true wheel. Both checked out nicely.
The end of the stay will nestle nicely in the curve of the filet for the top tube/seat tube joint.
I'm back to finishing up Charlie's small 26er. The main thing accomplished today was to bend the seatstays, cut them to length, and cap them using pieces of 1-1/8 inch tubing. A few pix follow:
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Slowly Catching Up
1) Check out House Industries at velocipedesalon.com - good stuff.
2) Also read about Suzy of Little Fish Bicycles - quite a multi-talented women who convinced any number of folks that they too could learn to build frames.
3) Step by step, things are getting better.
On the personal front, I've managed a couple of rides in a row now without disc problems. This is a win and a sign of improvement. that puts a smile on my face.
Currently I have a couple of steel frames under construction, hopefully I can get some pix soon. One is a small MTB for my youngest son. Fillet brazed with Cycle Design's LFB - interesting stuff with which to work, and I'm still getting the feel for it. One thing I'm experimenting with is using Metax (an early Columbus version of Stainless tubing) for the chainstays. Lots of careful timely cleaning is required before brazing this stuff to make sure of a good joint.
The other is a race bike for a rider who is strong in crits. He's fair sized, so it uses 2XL tubes. That's 31.7mm diameter for top and seat tubes and 25mm for the down tube. Should be plenty stiff. This one has a lugged BB w/ filet joints everywhere else.
I'm also getting a carbon frame ready for paint and should have finished pictures pretty soon. So lots going on.
Meanwhile, plenty of maintenance needs doing. The fuel line of Kevlar hoses sprung a leak, so after trying to repair it (hard to find small enough repair nipples), I went ahead an ordered new hoses and flash-back arrestors. At the same time, I ordered a repair kit for my torches valves. It's been dropped on the floor, and I think the O2 valve leaks when shut, costing me expensive O2. Unfortunately, this is on back order so I'll hve to refill my oxy tank tomorrow. Side note to this, my local welding supply is of little to no use regarding brazing supplies, or my torch (Smith aircraft torch) setup. Even when I offer them the opportunity to order what isn't in stock. I guess that I'm just too small a bit of business, but it also keeps me guilt-free when I order over the I-net.
I've also ordered some plumbing for a small air compressor (like for a brad nailer) I own. I'd like to start learning to paint frames via airbrush, and the first step is a clean reliable air supply. BTW, anything larger than an airbrush starts a slippery slope: 1) buy a good spray gun; 2) which requires a bigger compressor; 3) demanding 220V circuit in the garage; 4) which is dependent on a new panel and upgrading house to 200 amp service. I figure, by the time a I put together a basic spray booth with all the above, moving to spray guns would cost me at least $5K to start - which isn't in my current budget. So, I'll start with with airbrushes, and working out doors - probably with water based paints.
More soon.
2) Also read about Suzy of Little Fish Bicycles - quite a multi-talented women who convinced any number of folks that they too could learn to build frames.
3) Step by step, things are getting better.
On the personal front, I've managed a couple of rides in a row now without disc problems. This is a win and a sign of improvement. that puts a smile on my face.
Currently I have a couple of steel frames under construction, hopefully I can get some pix soon. One is a small MTB for my youngest son. Fillet brazed with Cycle Design's LFB - interesting stuff with which to work, and I'm still getting the feel for it. One thing I'm experimenting with is using Metax (an early Columbus version of Stainless tubing) for the chainstays. Lots of careful timely cleaning is required before brazing this stuff to make sure of a good joint.
The other is a race bike for a rider who is strong in crits. He's fair sized, so it uses 2XL tubes. That's 31.7mm diameter for top and seat tubes and 25mm for the down tube. Should be plenty stiff. This one has a lugged BB w/ filet joints everywhere else.
I'm also getting a carbon frame ready for paint and should have finished pictures pretty soon. So lots going on.
Meanwhile, plenty of maintenance needs doing. The fuel line of Kevlar hoses sprung a leak, so after trying to repair it (hard to find small enough repair nipples), I went ahead an ordered new hoses and flash-back arrestors. At the same time, I ordered a repair kit for my torches valves. It's been dropped on the floor, and I think the O2 valve leaks when shut, costing me expensive O2. Unfortunately, this is on back order so I'll hve to refill my oxy tank tomorrow. Side note to this, my local welding supply is of little to no use regarding brazing supplies, or my torch (Smith aircraft torch) setup. Even when I offer them the opportunity to order what isn't in stock. I guess that I'm just too small a bit of business, but it also keeps me guilt-free when I order over the I-net.
I've also ordered some plumbing for a small air compressor (like for a brad nailer) I own. I'd like to start learning to paint frames via airbrush, and the first step is a clean reliable air supply. BTW, anything larger than an airbrush starts a slippery slope: 1) buy a good spray gun; 2) which requires a bigger compressor; 3) demanding 220V circuit in the garage; 4) which is dependent on a new panel and upgrading house to 200 amp service. I figure, by the time a I put together a basic spray booth with all the above, moving to spray guns would cost me at least $5K to start - which isn't in my current budget. So, I'll start with with airbrushes, and working out doors - probably with water based paints.
More soon.
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